What Is a Crochet Invisible Decrease?

Look at the decrease rounds on a finished amigurumi. If there are small gaps or raised bumps where stitches pulled together, that is a standard dc2tog (double crochet two together). On stuffed pieces, those gaps are among the most noticeable parts of the finished work.

The crochet invisible decrease is a different technique entirely. It reduces stitches through a change in hook placement, and the stitch sits flat on the surface with no gap behind it. 

In this article, we will cover what it is, how it works, and the exact steps to follow. So, let’s get into it. 

Key Takeaway

• The invisible decrease crochet reduces two stitches into one, but uses a different hook placement from a standard dc2tog.

• In amigurumi, the gaps left by a standard decrease become more obvious once stuffing is inside. The invisible decrease removes that problem.

• The technique relies on one rule about which loops you work into. It is simpler than it sounds.

• Four steps complete an invisible decrease. Each one builds on the last.

• Three mistakes catch beginners out with this technique. At least one of them is easy to miss without a heads-up.

What Is a Crochet Invisible Decrease?

An invisible decrease crochet reduces two stitches into one by working into the front loop only of two adjacent stitches. With a standard dc2tog, the hook goes under both loops of each stitch. With an invisible decrease, it goes under the front loop only. That change in hook placement is what produces a flatter, neater stitch.

The finished decrease looks like a regular double crochet. No raised bump and no gap.

The inv dec crochet abbreviation appears in a few different ways across patterns:

• inv dec (most common)

• invdec

• dec (check the pattern notes, as this can refer to either type of decrease)

The stitches on either side of the decrease go through both loops as normal. Only the decrease itself uses front loops.

Why Amigurumi Needs the Invisible Decrease

Amigurumi is stuffed. Any gap in the fabric will show the filling inside, and the tighter the stuffing, the more obvious it becomes.

The pieces are crocheted in continuous rounds, always with the right side facing outward. If you are new to amigurumi, our guide to what amigurumi is covers the basics. You never turn the work, so there is no wrong side to hide a decrease on.

A standard dc2tog leaves a small gap at the decrease point. Three things make this particularly visible in amigurumi:

• The right side is always facing out, so every stitch is on show

• Stuffing stretches the fabric from inside, pulling any existing gaps wider

• Pieces are compact, so each stitch sits close to the next

An invisible decrease in amigurumi keeps the surface neat and tight regardless of how firmly the piece is stuffed.

Standard Decrease vs Invisible Decrease

Both types of decrease reduce the stitch count by one, as we mentioned before. So we created the table below to summarise where they differ.

This is why many amigurumi patterns simply write "dec" and assume the maker will use an invisible decrease.

How to Invisible Decrease Crochet: Step by Step

An invisible decrease crochet replaces two regular double crochets and reduces the stitch count by one. It appears in a pattern wherever two stitches need to become one, most commonly in the closing rounds of an amigurumi piece.

Practice on a small swatch first to build the movement before adding it to a project.

1. Insert the hook into the front loop only of the first stitch. The two strands at the top of each stitch form a V shape. The front loop is the strand closest to you. Leave the back loop unworked.

2. Without removing the hook, insert it into the front loop only of the second stitch. Three loops now sit on the hook.

3. Yarn over. Pull through both front loops. Two loops remain on the hook.

4. Yarn over again. Pull through the remaining two loops. The decrease is complete.

After the decrease, work every regular double crochet through both loops. The front-loop instruction applies only to the two stitches of the decrease itself.

Count stitches at the end of the round to confirm the decrease registered correctly.

Three Mistakes That Catch Beginners Out

Most errors with crocheting the invisible decrease fall into one of three patterns.

1. The stitch after the decrease is too loose

After completing the decrease, the yarn loses tension at the transition point. This leaves the following stitch slightly open. 

Give the yarn an extra pull before working into the next stitch to close it up.

2. The hook goes into the same front loop twice

If the hook enters the front loop of the first stitch twice without moving on to the second stitch, the result is an increase. The piece starts to widen a few rounds later. When a stitch count is higher than the pattern specifies, this is the first error to check.

3. The front-loop habit carries past the decrease

Working into front loops for one or two stitches after the decrease produces uneven tension in that section. The fabric at that point does not stay level with the surrounding row. Return to both loops for every stitch after the decrease.

A hook that is too large for the yarn makes all of these more noticeable. Looser fabric means gaps are wider at every decrease point, and tension control becomes harder throughout the piece. 

You can check out our guide to crochet hook size for amigurumi to understand which size to use before you start.

Ready to Put It Into Practice? 

The invisible decrease becomes familiar after a few rounds of practice. The movement is small, and once the four steps are clear, it fits naturally into any amigurumi round.

When you are ready to put it to use, have a look at our amigurumi companions. Each kit is designed for complete beginners and comes with yarn, a crochet hook, stuffing, and step-by-step video tutorials built around the specific companion you are making, so every stitch is covered.

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