How to Crochet in the Round: A Step-by-Step Beginner's Guide
Learning to crochet in the round is the point where flat crochet becomes three-dimensional. Rows build flat fabric. Rounds build spheres, cylinders, and cones.
It is the technique behind every amigurumi toy. Every head, body, arm, and tail starts this way. Once you know how to work in the round, you have the core skill behind any amigurumi pattern.
Key Takeaways
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The difference between crochet rows and rounds, and what each one creates
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Step-by-step instructions for both techniques, from the centre point to a finished round
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The flat circle formula and how stopping increases changes the shape of your work
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Four common problems when crocheting in the round, each with a cause and a fix
What Is the Difference Between Crochet Rows and Crochet Rounds?
When you crochet in rows, you work to the end of a line and turn back. Each row runs in the opposite direction. The finished fabric is flat.
Crocheting in the round starts from a centre point and works outward. You always move in the same direction, building fabric that has depth and structure.
Within rounds, there are two distinct techniques. Crochet spiral rounds (also called continuous rounds) keep moving without closing each round. Joined rounds close each round with a slip stitch and start the next with a chain. Both begin from the same centre point but produce different results and are used for different projects.
|
|
Crochet Spiral Rounds |
Joined Rounds |
|
Round structure |
Continuous, no closing stitch |
Each round closed with a slip stitch |
|
Starting the next round |
No chain. Keep working into the next stitch |
Chain 1 or more to reach stitch height |
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Visible seam |
None |
Faint vertical line up the side |
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Stitch marker |
Required. Needed to track where each round starts |
Optional. The slip stitch join marks each round clearly |
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Used for |
Amigurumi, stuffed toys |
Hats, coasters, granny squares |
How to Crochet Spiral Rounds
Spiral rounds start from the centre and work outward continuously, without closing or joining.
For beginners learning crochet in the round, the magic ring is the standard starting point. It creates a tight centre that closes completely once you pull the yarn tail, leaving no hole.
Starting the Centre
Option 1: The Magic Ring
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Hold the yarn with a tail of around 15cm hanging free
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Drape the working yarn over your fingers to form a loop, with the tail crossing underneath
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Insert the hook through the loop from front to back
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Draw the working yarn through and chain 1. This chain does not count as a stitch
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Work 6 double crochet stitches into the loop. Insert the hook through the open centre of the ring each time, not into a stitch or chain. Hold the tail with your other hand to stop the ring from loosening as you work
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Pull the yarn tail firmly to close the ring
The 6 stitches you have just worked are round 1.
Option 2: Chain 2
Chain 2, then work 6 double crochet stitches into the second chain from the hook. A small hole will remain in the centre and cannot be fully closed. This is a practical option when the magic ring feels difficult to hold at first, and the hole is small enough to be hidden on most finished projects.

Crochet in the Round Without Chain
Crochet spiral rounds move directly from one round to the next, without a closing slip stitch or an opening chain. The stitches follow each other continuously. The only crochet tool specific to this method is a stitch marker.
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After completing round 1, place a stitch marker into the last double crochet you made.
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Work a double crochet into the next stitch. This is the first stitch of round 2.
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Continue working a double crochet into each stitch around.
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Work a double crochet into the stitch that holds the marker. This is the last stitch of the round.
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Move the marker into the stitch you just completed. Repeat from step 1.

The marker is the only signal for where each round begins. There is no visible join. Move it up into the first stitch of every new round without skipping this step.
How to Crochet Joined Rounds
Joined rounds start from a foundation ring. The ring is made from a short chain, which leaves the centre open to work stitches into across the entire first round.
Starting the Centre
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Chain 4, leaving a tail of around 15cm
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Join the chain into a ring by working a slip stitch into the very first chain you made. Insert the hook, yarn over, and pull the yarn through both loops on the hook

Working Round 1
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Chain 1. This does not count as a stitch.
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Insert the hook through the open centre of the ring.
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Yarn over and pull the yarn through the ring. You now have 2 loops on the hook.
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Yarn over again and pull the yarn through both loops on the hook. You now have 1 loop remaining. This is your first double crochet.
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Place a stitch marker into this first double crochet.
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Repeat steps 2 to 4 five more times until you have 6 double crochet stitches in total. Insert the hook through the open centre of the ring each time, not through a chain stitch.
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To close the round, insert the hook into the first double crochet you made, yarn over, and pull the yarn through both the stitch and the loop on the hook in one movement. This is a slip stitch. Do not insert the hook into the starting chain 1.

Starting Round 2 and Beyond
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Chain 1 at the start of each new round. This chain does not count as a stitch.
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Work a double crochet into the top of each stitch from the previous round. Each stitch has a visible V-shape at the top. Insert the hook under both legs of the V.
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Close the round with a slip stitch into the first double crochet of this round.
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Repeat steps 1 to 3 for each new round.
Count your stitches at the end of each round before moving on. The total should match the count stated in your pattern.
The slip stitch join leaves a faint seam line up the side of the fabric on every completed round.
How to Use Increases to Build a Flat Crochet Circle
An increase is two double crochet stitches worked into the same stitch. Adding six increases per round, with the increases evenly spaced, keeps the fabric flat as the circle grows.
Key
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dc = double crochet
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1 increase = 2 double crochet stitches worked into the same stitch
The standard starting count is 6 stitches. Each round after that follows this formula.
|
Round |
Total Stitches |
Pattern |
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Round 1 |
6 |
Work 6 dc into the magic ring or foundation ring |
|
Round 2 |
12 |
1 increase in every stitch |
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Round 3 |
18 |
1 dc, 1 increase. Repeat 6 times |
|
Round 4 |
24 |
2 dc, 1 increase. Repeat 6 times |
|
Round 5 |
30 |
3 dc, 1 increase. Repeat 6 times |
Each round adds exactly 6 stitches. The increases are spaced one stitch further apart with each round, which distributes them evenly and keeps the circle flat. This pattern works for both spiral rounds and joined rounds.
What If You Stop Increasing?
Once you stop adding increases, the fabric stops growing outward. The sides start to rise. This is how a sphere or dome forms in amigurumi, with flat rounds building width and straight rounds building height.
Work with no increases at all from the very first round, and the fabric curls into a tube from the start. This is how cylindrical pieces such as arms, legs, and tails are made.
Common Problems When Crocheting in the Round
Four problems come up regularly for beginners working on crochet in the round. The cause is almost always the stitch count, the tension, or the stitch marker.
Hole in the Centre
The magic ring was not pulled tight enough. Pull the yarn tail firmly after completing round 1. If a small gap remains, it will reduce as the stitches of round 2 are worked above it.
Wavy or Ruffled Edges
Too many increases were added in a round, or increases were placed too close together. Count the stitches in the last complete round. A wavy edge almost always comes from one extra stitch added at some point. Compare the total against the flat circle formula to find the affected round.
Edges Curling Inward
Not enough increases were added per round. Check the stitch count first. If the total matches the formula and the problem continues, the cause is tension. Work the stitches slightly more loosely and check after completing the next full round.
Lost Count of Stitches
No stitch marker was used, or the marker was moved at the wrong point. Count back from the last confirmed position, find the first stitch of the current round, and place the marker there before continuing.
Try Your First Round Project

Every amigurumi project, from the simplest beginner companion to the most detailed build, uses the techniques covered in this guide. The spiral, the flat circle, and the tube are the shapes behind every head, body, and limb in the craft.
The next step is putting it into practice. If you want to start crocheting your first real project without sourcing materials separately, our starter crochet kits come with yarn, a hook, and video tutorials that walk through every round at your own pace.
FAQ
What is the difference between crochet spiral rounds and joined rounds?
Spiral rounds move continuously without closing each round, creating seamless fabric with no visible join. Joined rounds close each round with a slip stitch and open the next with a chain, leaving a faint seam line up the side of the fabric.
Why do my edges keep going wavy after a few rounds?
Wavy edges come from too many increases in a round, or from increases placed too close together. Count the stitches in the last complete round and compare the total against the flat circle formula.
Can I use treble crochet stitches when crocheting in the round?
Yes. The structure is the same for any stitch, and your pattern will specify the chain count for starting each joined round and the stitch count for round 1.
Is there a way to change colour while crocheting in the round without a visible line?
In spiral rounds, use the new yarn on the final yarn over of the stitch before the colour change. In joined rounds, use the new yarn on the closing slip stitch at the end of the round.
What does it mean when a crochet pattern says 'MR, 6dc' or 'ch2, 6dc'?
MR means magic ring, and 6dc means work 6 double crochet stitches into it. Ch2, 6dc means chain 2 and work 6 double crochet stitches into the second chain from the hook.
