How to Join a New Ball of Yarn in Crochet

Running out of yarn halfway through a make is one of those moments that stops a beginner in their tracks. The good news is that it takes seconds to fix once you know how. There are four reliable ways to join a new ball of yarn in crochet, and the one you choose depends on your project and the yarn in your hands. 

In this guide, we will walk through all four, with clear steps, the pros and cons of each, and exactly how much yarn to leave behind before you swap. Pick the one that suits what you are making.

Key Takeaways

• Join at the end of a row or round whenever you can, for the neatest result.

• The yarn-over join is the quickest option and doubles as a colour change. Leave around 10 to 15cm.

• The magic knot gives a tiny, permanent join with nothing to weave in. Leave around 25 to 30cm.

• The Russian join tucks both tails inside the yarn for a smooth, strong finish. Leave around 15cm.

• A simple knot is the fastest fix when you only need to keep going.

• Your yarn type decides which of these will actually hold.

Why You'd Need to Join a New Ball

Most of the time, a new strand goes on because the old ball has run out. Larger makes such as blankets or garments use far more yarn than a single ball holds, so somewhere mid-row you reach the end of one and need another to keep the piece growing.

Other reasons call for a join too. You bring in a fresh strand every time you change colour, so stripes, patterns and a two-tone character all depend on it. A knot or thin spot in the yarn is best cut out, which means joining the good length back on. And if you enjoy using up leftovers, linking short scraps end to end turns odd bits into a ball you can work from.

Each of these calls for the same skill. Getting comfortable with joining yarn in crochet means none of them slows you down.

The Yarn-Over Join

This is the first way of joining new yarn that most beginners learn, and for good reason. You work it straight into a normal stitch, so there is nothing extra to tie or thread. The same move lets you change colour in your crochet, which makes it the go-to when you want stripes or a two-tone character.

Work until the old strand is down to its last 10 to 15cm (4 to 6 in), then start your final stitch and stop just before the last yarn-over.

1. Begin your stitch as normal and pause when two loops remain on the hook.

2. Drop the old yarn and pick up the new strand, leaving a short tail.

3. Yarn over with the new yarn and pull it through both loops to finish the stitch.

4. Carry on with the new ball, giving both tails a soft tug after a few stitches.

Best for colour work, amigurumi colour changes, and anything worked in the round. 

It lies flat and invisible in a single colour. The trade-off is security, since it holds less firmly than a knot and leaves you two ends to weave in.

How to Tie a Magic Knot in Crochet

The magic knot links two strands with a pair of tiny knots that slide together and lock. Once tightened, it holds firmly, stays almost invisible, and leaves no ends to weave in. Leave yourself around 25 to 30cm (10 to 12in) on each strand when you are learning, since the extra length gives you room to work.

Step 1: Tie the old yarn around the new

Lay both strands side by side. Take the old yarn under and over the new one, back across itself, and pull the knot tight.

Step 2: Tie the new yarn around the old

Do the same in reverse. Loop the new yarn under and over the old one, across itself, and pull tight. You now have two separate knots.

Step 3: Slide and trim

Hold one strand in each hand and pull them apart. The two knots travel along until they meet and grip. Snip both tails close to the join, taking care not to cut into the knot itself.

A few things to know before you reach for it.

• It cannot be undone, so it is a permanent fix.

• It can slip on very smooth or fine yarn, such as silk or bamboo, unless you tighten it well.

• A small firm knot stays in the work, which some crocheters happily accept, and others avoid on heirloom pieces.

Best for blankets, garments, and scrap-yarn makes where you want speed and no loose ends.

How to Make a Russian Join in Crochet

For a strong, neat way to join new yarn, the Russian join threads each tail back inside its own strand, so the two overlap and hold with nothing left hanging. It gives the strongest finish of the four, and the join survives regular washing. 

You need a tapestry needle and plied yarn for this one, which is where the plied cotton in the best yarn for amigurumi comes into its own. Leave enough to pass roughly 5 to 7.5cm (2 to 3in) back through the plies, so about 15cm of working length.

1. Thread the old yarn onto a tapestry needle.

2. Pass the needle back through the centre of that same strand for a few centimetres, leaving a small loop at the end.

3. Thread the new yarn through that loop, then send it back through its own centre in the same way.

4. Pull both strands gently so the loops close and the join smooths out, then trim the loose ends.

So, what do you get?

• Very secure, with no ends to weave in.

• Slightly thicker where the strands overlap, though it settles once crocheted.

• It needs plied yarn, so single-ply and very slippery strands are tricky.

Best for seams under strain, plied cotton, and anything you wash frequently.

The Simple Knot

Sometimes you only need to carry on, and the quickest way to join yarn is a simple knot tied straight into your work. Tie the old and new strands together in a firm double knot, snug against your last stitch, then keep crocheting. Leave around 15cm (6in) on each tail so you can weave them in afterwards.

It asks for no tools and no practice, which makes it handy for quick fixes and for spots that stay hidden. The knot can show on the front of open fabric and may loosen over time, so it suits practice pieces more than heirlooms. There is one place it suits perfectly, inside a stuffed amigurumi, where a small secure knot disappears into the stuffing and stays out of sight.

Which Join Should You Use?

The right choice comes down to two questions. What are you making, and what yarn is on your hook. For a quick reminder, here is how the four ways to join new yarn compare at a glance.

If you crochet small stuffed characters, running out mid-make is rare, since a good kit includes the right amount of yarn measured for each companion. That leaves the yarn-over join as the one you will use most, because it carries you smoothly through every colour change on a character's face or belly.

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