The double crochet stitch sits at roughly twice the height of a single crochet and produces a softer, more open fabric that grows noticeably faster row by row. If you've already picked up the chain stitch and single crochet through our guide on how to start crocheting for the first time, the double crochet is the natural next stitch to learn.
One extra motion separates dc from sc. You yarn over before inserting the hook, and that single addition changes the height, the texture, and the pace of your work. Blankets, scarves, granny squares, and lightweight garments all rely on the dc stitch, and once you've learned it, all of those projects become realistic to take on.
Which Stitch Is a US Double Crochet in UK Terminology?
US and UK crochet patterns use the same stitch names for completely different stitches, and double crochet sits right at the centre of that confusion. The stitch you'll learn in this article, the US double crochet (dc), is called a treble crochet (tr) in UK patterns. A UK "double crochet" (dc) is the shorter, denser stitch that US patterns call a single crochet (sc).
Following a UK pattern and working a US dc where it says "dc", will produce a taller stitch than the design intended, and the finished piece won't match the written instructions at all.
The four main stitches line up across both naming systems.
|
US Term |
UK Term |
|
single crochet (sc) |
double crochet (dc) |
|
half double crochet (hdc) |
half treble crochet (htr) |
|
double crochet (dc) |
treble crochet (tr) |
|
treble crochet (tr) |
double treble (dtr) |
The quickest way to tell which system a pattern uses is to look for the words "single crochet" or the abbreviation "sc." If they appear anywhere in the instructions, the pattern is written in US terms. If the shortest stitch listed is called "double crochet," the pattern follows UK terms, and you can use our crochet abbreviations and definitions guide to convert between the two when following a pattern written in an unfamiliar system.
How Do You Make a Double Crochet Stitch?
Grab a 5mm hook and some smooth, light-coloured yarn in a medium weight (category 4). Light colours make your stitches easier to see, and 5mm gives enough room on the shaft to watch what's happening as you work.
Setting Up the Foundation Chain
Chain your desired number of stitches plus 3 extra. Those additional 3 chains act as the first double crochet of Row 1, so you won't be working a separate dc into them.
Yarn over (wrap the yarn from back to front over the hook) and insert your hook into the 4th chain from the hook. The 3 chains you skipped count as your first dc stitch.
Working the Double Crochet
Each double crochet stitch follows five movements:
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Yarn over (wrap yarn from back to front over the hook).
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Insert the hook into the next stitch.
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Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have 3 loops on the hook.
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Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. 2 loops remain.
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Yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops. 1 loop remains on the hook.
The rhythm you're training into your hands is yarn over, insert, pull up a loop, pull through two, pull through two. Three pulling motions in total. Once that sequence settles, your speed picks up within a few rows.
Continuing the Row and Starting Row 2
Work one double crochet into each chain across the foundation row. At the end, count your stitches and include the 3 skipped chains from the beginning in your total, since they serve as the first dc.
To begin Row 2, chain 3 and turn your work. That chain 3 is your turning chain, and how you treat it has a direct effect on your stitch count for the rest of the project.
Does Your Chain 3 Count as the First Stitch?
The turning chain causes more stitch count errors than anything else when you're first learning double crochet, and published patterns handle it in two different ways.
When the Chain 3 Counts as a Stitch
Most published patterns treat the chain 3 at the start of each row as the first dc stitch of that row. You skip the stitch directly below the chain and work your first actual double crochet into the second stitch along.
At the end of the following row, you need to work a dc into the top of that chain 3 from the row before. Missing it drops a stitch. A stitch marker placed at the top of the chain 3 makes it far easier to locate when you reach the end of the row.
When the Chain 3 Does Not Count as a Stitch
Some modern patterns specify "ch 3, does not count as a stitch." In that case, work your first dc directly into the first stitch at the base of the chain, and do not work into the top of the chain 3 when you reach the end of the next row.
Designers sometimes prefer this option because a chain 3 that counts as a stitch can leave a small gap at the edge of the fabric where the chain pulls away from its neighbouring stitches.
Whichever option you pick, apply it to every row. Switching between the two within the same project alters your stitch count by one on each inconsistent row, and over 10 or 15 rows, the piece will visibly widen or narrow on one side. Always read the pattern notes before working your first row.
Where Your First Double Crochet Rows Can Go Wrong?
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Uneven Edges and Stitch Count Drift
Edges that wave or lean to one side, and pieces that gradually get wider or narrower, almost always come back to how the turning chain is being handled at the start and end of each row.
If the chain 3 counts as a stitch and you also work a dc into the first stitch below it, you've added an extra stitch. If you reach the end of a row and miss the top of the previous row's turning chain, you've lost one. Both of these errors pull edges out of line, and when they repeat across several rows, or the chain 3 gets treated inconsistently, the fabric starts to drift in one direction.
Counting your stitches at the end of every row is the fastest way to catch it. If the count is already off across several rows, unpicking back to where the number was last correct is the cleanest way to recover.
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Skipping the Yarn Over and Making a Single Crochet
Forgetting to yarn over before inserting the hook is the most common slip in early dc rows. Without that yarn over, you're making a single crochet, and the finished stitch will sit noticeably shorter than its neighbours in the row.
A quick way to catch it as you go is to count the loops on your hook after pulling up. A dc stitch should have 3 loops at that point. If you only see 2, you've missed the yarn over and started an sc. Undo the stitch by pulling it out, then start again with the yarn over before reinserting.
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Stitches That Feel Too Tight to Work Into
The double crochet stitch is taller than a single crochet and pulls more yarn through each loop. Carrying over the same tight grip from sc practice produces a stiff fabric that resists the hook on every subsequent row.
Let your yarn hand relax slightly, and allow the loops to sit on the widest part of the hook shaft. If your stitches still feel rigid after loosening up, go up half a hook size. Once your grip feels more relaxed, changing colour in crochet across dc stripes will quickly show you where tension dips or tightens between rows.
Take Your Double Crochet From Practice to a Finished Companion
Want to put your new double crochet skills to work on a real project with everything included? Our starter crochet kits arrive with the hook, yarn, stitch markers, step-by-step video tutorials, and unlimited support built in.
FAQ
Can I use treble crochet for amigurumi?
Most amigurumi patterns use double crochet because it creates a tighter fabric that holds stuffing inside without gaps showing through. Treble crochet leaves wider gaps between stitches, so stuffing tends to poke through. Some patterns do call for tr on specific details like hair, ruffles, or clothing on a character, but the body and limbs are nearly always worked in dc.
Does treble crochet use more yarn than double crochet?
Per stitch, yes, because each tr stitch is taller and pulls extra yarn through the loops. But across a full project, tr uses less yarn in total. Each row of tr adds more height, so a blanket or scarf reaches its finished size in fewer rows and with fewer stitches overall. A double crochet version of the same project needs extra rows and stitches to fill the same area, using more total yarn for a denser fabric.
How do I count treble crochet stitches in a finished row?
Look at the top of the row and count each V-shaped loop sitting above the stitch posts. Each V represents one treble crochet. The tall vertical posts also make tr stitches much easier to count from the side than shorter stitches like dc, which is one of the reasons tr is a good stitch for practising accurate counts early on.
What is the difference between treble crochet and half treble crochet?
Half treble crochet (htr) sits between double crochet and treble crochet in height. You still yarn over before inserting the hook, but you pull through all 3 loops at once in a single step. The finished stitch is shorter and slightly denser than tr, with a firmer fabric. If your project needs something taller than dc but tighter than tr, htr is the stitch to use.
Can I work treble crochet in the round?
Yes. Treble crochet works well in joined rounds, where you slip stitch to join at the end of each round and chain 3 to begin the next one. Granny squares, hats, and circular blanket motifs all use tr in the round. Continuous spiral rounds (common in amigurumi) are less typical for tr but still possible if you use a stitch marker to track the start of each round.
What projects work well for practising treble crochet?
Dishcloths and simple scarves work well because they're flat, repetitive, and finish quickly. A granny square is another strong pick once you're comfortable with the stitch, since each round of tr builds on the one before it and the square shape makes counting straightforward. Any pattern that uses rows of tr with minimal shaping will give your hands the repetition they need.